Pruning Roses in Northern Nevada
  Mary Lynn Machabee
ARS Consulting Rosarian, Reno Rose Society
Master Gardener with the UNR Co-operative Extension

modified from The Silver Rose March 2004

The annual pruning of roses has long been of concern to rose growers, both new and experienced. Many feel it to be a mystical event. Many others feel it should be approached ina scientific manner. Recent demonstrations at the Gardens of the Rose in St. Albans, England by the Royal National Rose Society have shown that traditional cutting and shaping of the bushes is not the only way to achieve that great first bloom.  Pruning and shaping was performed with electric hedge clippers and resulted in more blooms! We are not recommending here that pruning should be done electrically; however, it does prove to shape the bush, remove dead or diseased wood and crossing canes, improve the quality of the blooms, and to encourage new growth and basal breaks, or new canes growing from the bud union of grafted roses. It is important to note that all roses are not grafted.

When do I prune?

The question is probably the most asked by rose growers, and in the Truckee Meadows, the most difficult to answer, given the fickleness of local weather. In this region, between the first and fifteenth of April is usually a good time to begin pruning. If your bushes have already begun leafing out, don’t panic! You can still prune. If below freezing temperatures are stilll being predicted by April 15th, wait. It is best to prune after the last frost, since pruning encourages new growth which could be damaged by frost.  Local microclimates can make a difference in pruning times, also. If your roses are located in a protected area, it may be acceptable to prune earlier. Roses that bloom only one a year should be pruned after the bloom cycle.

Equipment

A sharp pair of bypass type pruning shears is a must to avoid damaging canes during the pruning process. If you have bushes which have developed large woody canes, apair of lopping shears will be helpful. A pruning saw or keyhole saw may be used in place of lopping shears. A small bristle brush is used for cleaning loose bark from the bud union. A disinfectant such as rubbing alcohol, a 20% solution of bleach and water, or Lysol disinfectant spray used on all pruning equipment will help prevent the spread of disease from one bush to another. All pruning cuts larger than a pencil should be sealed with a non-toxic, non-petroleum based sealant such as Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Glue. This will help to prevent injury of the plant by insects or disease. Leather gloves are a must to protect hands from thorn scratches or punctures. The gauntlet type reaching almost to the elbow are recommended. Eye protection should be worn also. In the event that you do receive scratches or punctures, be sure to clean wounds accordingly. And... be sure that your tetanus immunizations are current. Soil is the natural habitat of the bacterium which causes tetanus.

The All Important Cut

The most important technique in pruning roses is the cut: The correct angle and direction.  Every pruning cut should be made at a 45 degree angle, at about 1/4 inch above a leaf axil where there is a dormant eye. If foliage is present, this is easy to find. When no foliage has appeared yet, look for the dormant eye where foliage was once connected. This usually looks like a slight swelling near a horizontal line on the cane. The cut should be made above a bud eye that is pointing to the outside of the bush. The growth that will emerge from this bud eye is what will give the bush a circular shape, keeping the center of the bush open for good air circulation. Cutting to an outside eye should be also eliminate crossing canes, which can result in damage to the canes. The purpose of cutting on a 45 degree angle will allow the excess sap, a natural occurrence, to drain away from the new growth and avoid interfering with the developing bud eye.  Cuts made all the way to the

bud union can be made either flush, or a 1/4 in stub may be left in case any dormant eyes should remain there. If in doubt, leave the stub. If no new growth develops it can be removed next year.

General Pruning Tips

1.	Always prune to good, healthy tissue, recognized by the green bark on the outside of the cane and white pith inside after the cut is made.
2.	Sealing the cut with Elmer’s glue will speed the recovery of the bush and prevent boring insects from entering the fresh cut.  The glue is non-toxic and dries clear, thus not discoloring or providing a distraction from the natural beauty of the bush.
3.	To provide good air circulation to the bush, prune, so that the canes form a vase shape from the base of the bush. Be sure that there are no crossing canes which may rub on one another and cause damage in which disease and insects will be able to enter the plant.
4.	Remove all spindly stems which are not capable of producing good sturdy growth.
5.	Check to see if suckers are present. These will be growth emanating from the root structure below the bud union of a grafted rose. Remove them as close to the main root as possible with a twisting motion. If the sucker does not twist off, it may be cut with pruners or removed with the aid of a pruning saw. If suckers are not removed they will rob the bush of nutrients and eventually kill the grafted variety. The understock variety most often used in the area is the variety named “Dr. Huey” ("Meet Dr. Huey" by Ann Marie Harris, The Silver Rose July 2007). It is a once blooming climber with dark red flowers.
6.	Remove any canes which appear to be woody, sawing them off flush with the bud union. Using a bristle brush, remove any loose bark from the bud union, enabling basal breaks to emerge more easily.
7.	When pruning is complete, carefully remove any remaining foliage from the previous year’s growth. Remove and discard all leaves and debris from the beds. Do not compost rose cuttings or dig them into the beds, as insects and diseases may be present.
8.	If new foliage has not yet appeared upon completing of pruning, a dormant season spray may be applied, according to package directions. If foliage is present a summer weight horticultural oil may be used to help eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.  Don’t forget to spray the soil around each rose bush, also. Be sure to wear proper protective clothing, shoes, gloves, and headgear. Follow package directions exactly.

After Pruning is Completed

Thoroughly clean all rose beds of leaves and other debris. This will reduce the probability of hiding places for insects and disease. The remains from pruning and bed cleanup should be disposed of in the garbage and not used for mulch or compost as disease spores may survive and reinfect the roses. Seal the pruning cuts with Elmer’s Glue (or Carpenter’s Wood Glue) to prevent insects and disease from entering the new cuts. If you chose to use a dormant or summer spray or a horticultural oil, do so immediately after pruning. If foliage has appeared do not use dormant oil, as it will burn the foliage.  Fertilize according to your growing program.

The Reno Rose Society sponsors an Annual Rose Pruning Demonstration on the last Saturday in March at the Reno Municipal Rose Garden in Idlewild Park, Reno, Nevada.  This year's demonstration, as always, is free and will begin at 11:00 am on March 27, 2010. 

Back to Articles page